Food Tips: Part 1

Breakfast before...

1. If a menu has numerous international flags on it, don't eat there! That is basically code for overpriced tourist trap, I promise.

2. When buying a crêpe off the street, watch them make one before getting in line. Make sure they pour the batter onto the griddle and make a fresh one for you, rather than just reheating a crêpe from a stack they've already made. I was recently in Giverny and went against my own advice and it was definitely not my best decision. I mean, it was a Nutella crepe, so obviously not a total loss, but I had a fresh Nutella and banana crepe a few days later and it was so.much.better.

3. If a restaurant says, on the outside, in English, "QUALITY BURGERS HERE!," doubt their claims.

4. Croissants are best before noon. They really are. Okay, let's face it, they're croissant so they're delicious any time, but if you get one before noon, the outside is crackly while the inside is perfectly yeasty and the enormous amounts of butter are still light and airy instead of a bit leaden (as they get the longer they sit out).

5. This is just my personal thing, BUT, when buying a baguette sandwich, stick to the ones that are not already in an enclosed plastic bag. I think the ones that are in the display case that are only put in a bag when you order them are fresher. The already enclosed ones just make me think they're going to be stale. These sandwiches are literally half a baguette sliced down the middle with a smear of butter, a slice of ham and a slice of cheese-- super easy. There really isn't any reason for them not to be pretty fresh from the boulanger.

6. Pierre Herme macarons are the best. THE BEST. (I also tried Lauduree for scientific comparison and PH is definitely the winner.)

Breakfast after(ish)...

The Marais

The Marais is probably my favorite part of Paris (so far). There are TONS of things to do, good places to eat, and it is super walkable. I go there more than I go to any other neighborhood in Paris, which I sometimes feel a bit guilty about, but whatever, I love it. The Marais used to be the Jewish Quarter in Paris and while there is still a pretty signficant population of Jewish people living there, I would say most people now are young, professional/creative (can you join those two with only a slash??) types. It's really expensive to live there now, though, because it's gotten pretty hip. Some vestiges of a larger Jewish population remain, though, such as delicious falafel all up and down the Rue des Rosiers and the fact that things are closed on Saturday and open on Sunday, instead of vice versa. I avoid it on Sundays, though, because that's when there's an influx of people/tourists (see above reasoning).

The most famous falafel shop on Rue des Rosiers is L'As du Falafel. This sandwich is from their across-the-street rival Mi-Va-Mi because when I went, L'As du Falafel was closed for Passover (Mi-Va-Mi is also Jewish run but I guess they have a better sense of competition than religion?). Like I said... some of these are pretty old pictures...

Them's fightin' words...

The Marais also has some of the best thrift shopping in Paris. It is sooo different than the thrifts in the US. Everything was nice and organized and not overwhelming, but shockingly not overpriced either. I got a skirt and a shirt for only 5 euros each here.

One of my very favorite things about the area is that there is street art everywhere, EVERYWHERE. You just have to look around a bit. Though, sometimes it kind of hits you in the face, like with this:

I tried to come up with a witty caption for like 3 minutes. Didn't happen. TIGERS.

This was a bit more subtle. I thought the 3-D part was really cool.

Shot taken in what is probably my favorite cafe in Paris, Le Loir dans le Théière. It's Alice-in-Wonderland-before-Disney-got-to-her themed. 

Maybe the best part, though...?

The good stuff. The chocolate marscapone tarte is killer.

French Phrases to Help You (Me) Get Along: Part 1

Stereotype of French people: mean, impatient, rude, etc.
French people in reality*: generally nice, polite, to the point, but I mean, no one really likes the person who talks your ear off

*EXCEPTION: French teenagers and college kids. They are SO JUDGEY. For reals.

I think that what happens a lot of the time is that people forget that France has a really strong culture of politeness. It also has a really strong culture of meaningful shrugs and "Hmm, MAYBE" facial expressions. If you can master a really strong shrug, a good "maybe you have a point, maybe I have a point" face (it helps if your mouth turns down but your eyes widen, almost like a clown but not, somehow), and the following few phrases, you'll be golden. I'm thinking of turning this into a series as I learn more, hence the "Part 1" at the top.

Bonjour Madame/Monsieur: Everyday greeting. It's polite. You HAVE to say this at the beginning of pretty much every social interaction, especially when you walk into a store. Especially.
(After 4pm version: Bonsoir Madame/Monsieur)
Oh also, when you leave a store, be sure to always say "Au revoir" and, if you're feeling extra nice, the following phrase...

Bonne journee (Bonne soiree): Esentially translates to "Have a good day (afternoon, evening)." You don't HAVE to say this, but people really perk up and are super nice when you do. Then, if you go back or if you see them again, they are generally a bit friendlier at the start. It's super easy to do and makes a big difference.

Oui: technically it means yes, when I say it, it often means, "I kind of didn't understand what you just said but you're smiling, so I'm going to take a chance and say yes and/or agree with whatever you just said." Often accompanied by a tentative smile.

Peut-être: Means maybe. For me, often has the same meaning as Oui, but when I'm even less sure of what you just said. This one is riskier than oui though, because "maybe" doesn't always make sense. Exhibit A:

Host's younger brother (my age, turned away from me): So, do you like Paris? (as I later found out was the original question)

What I heard: "Fastmumble you mumblemumble"

Me [Tentative shrug, half-smile, as he turns around for my response]: Peut-être

Brother: Maybe? That's not really an answer for this question

Me: Oh. Umm...

End scene. Picture me blushing, asking him to repeat and then still not giving an answer to his liking, though I did manage to answer truthfully this time.

More phrases to come as I think of them/run across new ones...

French elevators

1) They fit a maximum of about 2 people, though often people manage to squeeze a couple extra in there.

2) There is pretty much never an up AND a down button; it's usually just down, no matter what floor you are on or what floor you're going to. Once you get on the elevator, you can press the correct button.

3) When you finally get on the elevator, it's a gamble whether or not you will actually get to your floor promptly. Sometimes the elevator decides to pick up a few people first, maybe drop them off at their destination before yours, see if they have plans for dinner, etc.

Today

I happened across the most perfect pair of shoes. Ankle boots, beautifully weathered cognac color, handmade in Italy, and best / most amazing of all... IN MY SIZE. My tiny, not-even-usually-bothered-with-because-it's-so-small size.

The bad part? They cost 535 euros. Which equals, ohh about, $707.25.

Yeah...

Paris, I love you (I actually do this week!), but sometimes you make me cry a little on the inside with your beautiful, yet untouchable things.


(I realize this is superficial; I still loved them and want to remember this tiny-violin heartbreak for some reason. We will get back to our regularly scheduled, completely esoteric programming as soon as Flickr starts cooperating with me.)

AMURIKUH

Ah, election season, it comes but once a year. When I came to Paris, I was terribly disappointed that I would be missing the ASSU election season. What would I do without transparency, diversity, and increased student input (not to mention more free t-shirts and puppy time every Tuesday)? Imagine my delight to discover that I had the privilege of witnessing ISEP's (our host school) very own student-body elections instead. From what I could tell, there were a couple of different platforms but one really stood out-- JUS'TIZ TEAM, which was all about AMERICA.

**Disclaimer: These pictures are TERRIBLE and small. I had to take them sneakily in the fluorescent-lit hallway on my phone.

JUS'TIZ STADIUM: Awww yeah. Football. Beer. Flags. Cheerleaders. AMERICA.

An army of French college students (supporters/members of JUS'TIZ TEAM??) walked around wearing fake varsity jackets all week. It was... puzzling. 

Leading the way to JUS'TIZ STADIUM, naturally.

Random road signs were propped all along the hallway.

And license plates hung from the ceiling. (They had one from Arizona! Which was random, but whatever.)

In case you can't read the speech bubble, it says, "California Love!" Indeed. It think that might be some sort of superhero, but don't hold me to it.

One last thing-- a lot of the French students invited us to their campaign party (with a 15 euro cover charge!! Thanksbutnothanks) and kept hyping up the fact that they were going to have red cups to drink out of. Red cups, as in, red Solo cups, as in, so ubiquitous to be even past cliche (maybe...). The funny thing is, I think we only use them because they're everywhere and easy to get; yet, here in France, they represent the ultimate American college party time because of their inclusion in lots of movies and tv shows.

I think the best part was, upon hearing the hype, one (American) guy blurted out, "Wait, red cups aren't normal here? What do you drink out of??!"

Saint-Eustache

Saint-Eustace is a half-Gothic half-Renaissance church located in the 1st arrondisement. As much as I would like to say that I'm doing my alma mater (and grandmother) proud and systematically hitting up all the Catholic churches in Paris... I'm not. I actually went to Saint-Eustache on assignment for a class but it turned out to be beautiful and fascinating.

Begun during the 1500s (read: Gothic architecture) and finished during the High Renaissance (1600s-ish), Saint-Eustache is a little bit all over the place, which is kind of what makes it great. The most striking thing about the church is the huge contrast between the stately, somber, non-ornamental architecture and the highly decorative, super intricate, gold gold gold, finishing details and artwork.

Slowly deteriorating decorations

There's just a little bit of difference...

This is supposed to be the important part-- all gold, all the time. (Oh hey, we discovered this new continent? They seem to have a lot of this shiny thing. Let's use it to make our churches pretty!)

Surprisingly, I did not really feel tiny when I was in there. I kind of feel like I should have, looking back at these pictures.

Can't go anywhere in Paris without running into famous dead people.

What I loved the most about this church is that it still continues its tradition of incorporating new art styles into the existing structure. There are many alcoves running along the sides of the church that have really great modern art.

This looks 1000x better in person. At first I thought it was mineral exposed by the ages but it's not. It's an amazing painting that is expressive and glittery and almost looks like a part of the wall.

A triptych by Keith Haring! In a semi-random Gothic church in Paris! And there's a twin in SF! So many good things!

I think this church is off the tourist track which makes it nice and quiet. There were architecture buffs mixed in with worshippers when I visited. It's a church that still seemed to belong to Paris, changing and adapting with the times but also still keeping reminders of the past.

"I've never seen Jesus in a Speedo before."

Quote from my friend Mari, upon seeing a truly odd 17th-century painting of Jesus wearing what looked like a tropical-print Speedo. (Sadly, I did not get a picture of this.)

View from a window inside. Tiny ant people swarming.

Everyone always says it but it's true-- the Louvre is Huge. Gigantic. Exhaustingly enormous. I was there for 3 or 4 hours and I still think I saw only a tiny fraction of a fraction of the collection. Luckily, that tiny fraction still included lots of works of art that I've studied in my various art history classes. It was mind-blowing to see the scale of some of these works, especially ones like The Coronation of Napoleon (erm, might not be the exact title...) by David.

Look at the person for scale.

We went with some friends who were visiting from Berlin who wanted to "see what people come to the Louvre to see," so we also made the obligatory stop to see the Mona Lisa. Going to see the Mona Lisa is funny, there are lots of signs with just the picture and an arrow pointing in the semi-right direction and then as you begin approaching the room there are lots of signs warning about pickpockets. The thing about the Mona Lisa is, everyone always says it's so much smaller than you would think, but it's really not. It's totally a normal portrait-sized painting. Because the smallness had been so hyped up, it was actually bigger than I thought it would be.

The crowd was more interesting than the painting.

Saucy Odalisque. Can't believe I got to see her in person!

Really amazing cup made out of some sort of stone.

Maybe the best thing about being a kinda-sort-well-at-least-I-have-an-ID-card-that-says-so French student is that I can get into pretty much every museum for free. I get to see all this stuff for free! Anytime I want!

This privilege is extended to students in other EU countries as well, which my friends in Berlin kinda-sorta are. So, in anticipation of tough French ticket takers, we tried to teach them how to say "I am a German student" in French (JE SUIS ETUDIANT ALLEMAGNE JE SUIS ETUDIANT ALLEMAGNE) but they still got stopped. And questioned. And required to show passports and visas. Finally one of my friends just sort of shoved his German police papers (??!) at the lady, all flustered, and that finally let them through. (Apparently you have to register with the police when you move to Berlin. You might have more questions, so do I. But alas, that is the extent of my knowledge.)

FIN

Angelina

Yesterday I drank something that billed itself as hot chocolate, but I'm pretty sure it was just straight-up melted chocolate. That's how thick and decadent it was.

Neither of the pastries seen here were mine, but the one I shared with my friend looked a little like ground beef... It didn't really make for a pretty picture, not matter how many Instagram filters I tried.

One funny thing about our visit-- we went on a Saturday evening after an afternoon at the Louvre and I guess we must have gotten there about half an hour before closing time because just as we were settling the bill, a lady came around and asked us in very polite French to please finish up and leave soon as they were closing. We looked around after she left and saw that she was repeating the same message to the other stragglers in the room. It seemed like such an awkward job!

Angelina (just go for the hot chocolate): 226 Rue de Rivoli, Paris, 1er

The Human Hamster Cage

View from the ride up to the main gallery at the Centre Pompidou. Old Paris and new Paris in one picture.

On Friday I visited "the eyesore," aka the Centre Pompidou, a modern and contemporary art museum / film center / library / over-priced cafe. The whole building is super spare and industrial, which is in total opposition to the grand 19th century style of the surrounding architecture (and, you know, all of Paris...).

The best part is that in order to get to the main gallery, you have to ride up these external elevators that are encased in glass tubes. Admittedly, I felt very much like I was in one of the hamster exercise cage things, but it was still pretty cool. I mean, how often do you get to empathize with a hamster? Maybe don't answer that.

I feel like I only saw a fraction of the collection, but I might be wrong. Here are some highlights:

Clay bags? Sand bags? Neon? When I saw that the artist's label used the word "dialectic" to try to describe it, I was sort of done.

Mari and Justin: Serious Art Lookers

I love the idea of a woven fence

PS- If you are ever in the area, there is a really good super-small boba and empanada place only about a block or so away. I ironically (considering how popular it is in the Bay Area) had my first boba here, in Paris. Also, the empanadas were surprisingly great. Try to find it if you can! It's a small orange storefront.

PPS- Definitely made an American faux pas at the little orange restaurant. We were sitting outside chatting and I accidentally started speaking too loudly (in English) because I was telling a story and got excited and then I got a miffed side-long look/glare from a Frenchman at the restaurant next door (there was only a plastic sheet separating us). Oops.

Montparnasse 1900

Usually, there is no class in the Paris program on Fridays. Every weekend = a three-day weekend. It's a pretty sweet deal. This past Friday, however, we had one last, lone orientation session to attend and then afterward we all went to a classic Parisian brasserie a few blocks away from school called Montparnasse 1900. It's a really pretty Beaux Arts style restaurant; there aren't too many of these left. The Montparnasse neighborhood where we're located used to be full of artists and writers and thinkers, but now it's just full of tourists and students.

On the menu for our group was an entrée of endive and Roquefort cheese salad, a plat of duck confit with potatoes pan-fried in garlic and a dessert of tiny scoops of salted caramel, chocolate, and cream (?) ice cream.

Overall, the food was nothing too special, taste-wise. I'll be totally honest and say that I thought I was eating really dark chicken before I heard the girl to the right say something about canard (the French word for duck). The potatoes were tasty though! The Roquefort in the salad was super strong. At first taste, it wasn't too bad but then it quickly infiltrated my nose, throat, cheeks, and tongue and it became waaay too much. I downed two glasses of water and two pieces of bread in approximately two minutes following that bite. Not exactly my proudest French moment, but oh well.

Bonjour !

The car pictured is possibly the cutest thing I have seen in Paris so far. My dad said it's an old Fiat and it's parked outside of the store merci, which is in the 4th. merci is very cool, very expensive.

Today (well, I guess technically yesterday, since it's currently 2:23am in Paris) marks exactly one week in Paris. Time this week has felt oddly slow, which seems especially strange considering how a month often seems like a day back at school.

It's been one full week of quiche lorraine, orientation classes, G7 taxis, croissants au beurre, Haussmann-sized boulevards, really nice French adults, really intimidating French teenagers, and elevators with only a down button no matter what floor you are on.